Sunrise is just after 6. Gradually the sky lightens and the clouds blush pink and orange. A small table on the beach holds coffee, tea, hot milk and homemade biscuits, an offering for the early risers. The tide is high and one by one the fishermen gather and head off in their dhows for the day. The tide goes out quickly and far. By 10, the women are sitting in small groups in the shallows, collecting and bundling the seaweed for sale to faraway cosmetics producers, their laughter reaching us in the shade on the beach.. 3 pm, the tide is in again and we swim in water that feels like a hot bath. The fishers return with their catch of snapper, barracuda, tuna. We walk down the beach for a sundowner with Theo and Andrea from Germany. Back for another divine dinner. Some time with the Milky Way, and bed to the sounds of the bushbabies howling.
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